Metz: ancienne ville

The earliest traces of human activity in Lorraine extend back to about 200,000 years ago as documented by the discovery of a handaxe at Montigny-lès-Metz. But it is only after the 1st century BC that Metz arises in its first economic boom when we have mention of the Médiomatriques, a celtic people mentioned by Tacitus. The current name of the city derives from this word:

Medimatricorum>Mediomatris>Mettis>Mets>Metz.

The city was already known back then for the exploitation of the beige-colored stone which forms the ancient buildings of the town. During the Roman period Metz gained importance due to its central location at a major crossroads. It used to boast one of the most important amphitheaters of the Gallo-Roman world which could accommodate 25,000 spectators. As a curious coincidence, or perhaps not, the football stadium Saint-Symphorien de Metz accomodates the local Football Club de Metz and 25,000 fans. The stadium was built in 1923 but went through a major overhaul from 1998 to 2001.

Metz was the capital of the kingdom of Austrasia from 511 to  751. Frankish Salic law called for the kingdom to be divided among the king's sons after his death. When Clovis died, his kingdom was divided into Neustria, Burgundy, Austrasia, and Aquitania. Clovis' 1st born Thierry, or Theodoric (Theuderich) in German/ic, inherited Austrasia probably because his mother Clotilde, Clovis' first wife, was Rhenish. The territories that comprised Austrasia were the ancient Roman provinces of Germania prima, Germania secunda, Belgica prima, and parts of Belgica secunda. Austrasia was the jewel of the Merovingian Frankish Empire in the decades following the death of Clovis and Metz was its capital. It was the most germanicized part of Frankish Gaul.

Enough of history. Today Metz stands out as an incredibly charming city, proud of its culture, pervaded by the air of fine yet inconspicuous cuisine, rush hour pedestrian din, parks, excellent shopping, attractive local wines, cordial people that kindly welcome you into their homes or establishments, open air concerts, fine contemporary art exhibits in historical setting, beautiful ladies; it's a place to enclose completely in your heart and is in no way inferior to Francilienne cultue.

Des Adresses Utiles à Place de Chambre

Above I've scanned the business cards of three important establishments that made my experience in Metz all the more memorable. They are for you so you can make your own stay in Metz a more pleasant one. At the top is where I dined the only evening I was there, Mala Coste, with one word of advice: dine and wine there now!!!!! In the middle you'll find the business card of the wonderful inn which Madame Hocine has created with the greatest of care, love, passion, and just plain class: Hôtel de la Cathédrale. When I go back there soon, guess where I'll be staying? I have always desisted from large hotel chains. The B&Bs in the countryside or the small family owned hotel in cities have proven to enlighten me more. Support small business because it's personal, it's family, and it's home, it's us. And finally down below, the 3rd card, belongs to Madame La Sommelière. Or perhaps she prefers being called Le Sommelier? It doesn't matter because she had a patient ear for all my queries regarding local vines and French wine in general. A lovely person who completed the sommelier course in London I believe, probably that famous sommelier school that costs a lot of money but that nevertheless is like graduating from Yale; yet what I find interesting is that here is a fine lady from France, the craddle of modern winemaking and when I say modern I mean the last 1000 years, with a thriving wine bar, yet humble enough to enhance her knowledge about wine from the English? Hmmmmm? Okay, got it. You should visit her and allow her to instruct you in the delights of local winemaking, a very unsusual experience. I had her assortment of cheeses that blew me away!

Place de Chambre

This square consists of the massive gothic cathedral on the east side located on a gentle knoll, and the row of houses that, among other cozy locations, comprises numbers 23, restaurant Mala Coste, 25, Hôtel de la Cathédrale, 27, Caves à Vins (Le Sommelier).

Ruelle

After dining at Mala Coste, I decided to take a midnight stroll through old Metz. I caught some interesting night impressions of the city. As it was Friday, many venues were full of people partying.

Esplanade

It wouldn't be a French city without an esplanade to provide an oasis of peacefulness to its citizens. The word esplanade comes from the old verb esplaner which just means to make flat, or to flatten out as was the case in the areal in front of fortresses or palaces. It used to mean the flattened or evened out terrain between a fortress and the first houses of its town, however, now it is almost synonymous with park. People like to sit here on benches, the lawn, or on the ashlars that delineate boundaries within the park to enjoy lunch and chat.

Cave à Vins et Produits du Terroir: 27, place de Chambre à Metz

I spent the last moments of my brief stay in this truly original city talking about wine with the owner of this charming wine bar. Madame informed me that the local varietal is called auxerrois which produces a fruity white dry wine with an interesting pleasant acidity that actually does nicely as an aperitif, personally speaking. Her brother runs the restaurant to the left, out of view in this picture, and my hotel is to the right. Mala Coste, the restaurant where I had dined the previous evening, is right next to Hôtel de la Cathédrale. It served a wonderful steak dish with oven baked potato gratin and some unidentifiable deliciously juicy vegetable patty (I forgot to ask what it was). To accompany this culinary delight I ordered a simple dry and fruity rosé from the Languedoc region. It was perfect. The prices are very democratic! I had the steak which was superb, two half liters of the country rosé, an assortment of cheeses as dessert, and I think I recall a little appetizer in there somewhere all for just €44,-. Considering the quality of the food, the friendly and professional service, ideal location, and reasonable prices, it was a great pleasure to dine here.

But, briefly, back to Cave à Vins et Produits du Terroir (Le Sommelier): this little vinothèque offers a wide selection of French wines including local wines and specialties. As far as the surrounding vineyards are concerned, the regional "appellation" is denominated Vins de Lorraine which breaks down into Moselle and Côtes de Toul. These vineyards are not well known abroad for historically they have been overshadowed by the Champagne region to the west which of course boasts worldwide celebrity, Alsatia to the south-east which is not too shabby itself for its beautifully rounded Rieslings and Gewürtzraminers, and of course the mighty Rieslings of the Moselle river downstream in Germany which have been blessed with elite terroirs that produce some of the finest white wine in the world (appellation: Mosel-Saar-Ruwer). Even the wines of the Luxembourger section of the Moselle river have been praised in song by Jacques Brel and Nino Ferrer. What we have here then is an unjustified little image problem as far as I'm concerned because the wines of Pays Messin are very respectable indeed; and you can convince yourself at Caves à Vin at 27, Place de Chambre, 57000 Metz across Saint Etienne's cathedral. It hasn't been easy for Lorraine to assert herself as a legitimate producer of quality wine being crunched by at least three of the world's most famous viticultural regions: Champagne, Alsatia, and the German Moselle. Ughhhh! What a tough job, but that's exactly what makes messin wines all the more charming, like its people: uncomplicated, playful, sexy.

Wine was brought by Roman soldiers in the 3rd century to this area and the region's early prosperity surely owes a lot to its proximity to the then imperial city Trèves (German Trier), capital of the Western Roman Empire. In 511 Theoderic, firstling of Clovis, the great Merovingian monarch, elects Metz as capital of his kingdom Austrasia. As the bishops of Metz needed to welcome their kings in a dignified manner, they had great demand for competent wine cellars thus the clergy played an important role in the continuation of local viticulture. It is not until after the revolution of 1789 that we see a gradual increase of bourgeoisie investment in the local wine industry. Winemaking is further developed at the time of the region's annexation to Germany as vine acreage is increased from 5000 to 6000 acres. With climate and varietals similar to those of Champagne, the interest of the German wine industry is thus drawn to the region for production of sparkling wine (Sekt). Many German and Champenoise "maisons" establish subsidiaries along the Moselle river. At first must was imported from the Moselle for local fermentation. Native companies then successfully launch their own wine labels to assert themselves on the market.

Eglise Saint-Pierre-aux-Nonnains

This temple is France's oldest church and its origins go back to the year 390. Originally it was a civic auditorium (basilica in Latin) but was transformed into a chapel in 615. Its magnificent chancel can be appreciated at the Musées de la Cour d'Or. It is no longer used for cultic purposes. Today it serves as a space for free public exhibits.

When I arrived there it was just a few minutes before 1 p.m. Coincidentally that was the exact opening time. There was this girl waiting on the bench near the entrance smoking a cigarette. I didn't know it at that time but she was waiting for a guy who had the keys to get in, a friend of hers apparently. They must have been students from the local university. She greeted him cordially in the typical French custom and in we all went. The young man turned on the lights and set up the abstract yet interesting exhibit. It was as if they had been waiting for me all along and in general that's the impression I got about the whole city as if they had been thinking: there you are, where have you been all this time!?

The exhibit by Northamerican avantgardist Anthony McCall consisted of a film projector on a pedestal set up in a completely dark room projecting a circle segment (half-moon like) onto one of the walls of the exhibition hall which was a sectioned off space of the chapel. In comes the girl, whom I couldn't see as it was pitch dark, and begins explaining the concept of this unusual art installation. I speak and understand French sufficiently enough to converse, but it certainly has lots of room for improvement. She said something about smoke and I did notice that in the light beam emitted by the projector you could see something that certainly looked like smoke. I didn't get whether the smoke was dust particles floating in the temple or if it was being produced artificially by some invisible smoke machine. It certainly created an effect on me. She further explained something about breaking up the light beam by putting your hands between the projector and the wall. She then left me alone to grapple with the exhibit. 

This was my impression of the art exhibit. But what was it in the artist's view who, born in 1946 and studied in London, now lives in New York? What I saw was apparently a concept he called "Line Describing a Cone" back in 1973. He is considered to be one of the seminal artists of "American avant-garde cinema". He likes to work wit light, film, and projectors. Some of his known works include this one and "Long Film for Four Projectors".

On my way out I thanked the girl and took some additional information about these art events. This exhibit takes place within a broader context called Constellation (En attendant l'ouverture du Centre Pompidou-Metz) and started on May 15th. It will run up to the 4th of October 2009.

La Cour d'Or, Musées d'Art et d'Histoire

This museum was one of my main reasons for coming to Metz. Founded in 1839, it houses160 years worth of archeological revelations. The photo above shows beautiful glass vases from the Gallo-Roman period.

Épée mérovingienne

Depicted above is a Merovingian sword. The Merovingians were a Frankish tribe, in other words a Germanic conglomeration whose descendants are, among others, the German and French nations we know today. Only chieftains carried such long swords while their thegns (followers / warriors) swung axes and stabbed their foes with a type of knife (a short sword actually) called the "scramsaxe". The origins of the first and most powerful European dynasty to emerge from the ruins of Rome are thus Germanic.

I recall the winter of 1980 walking a suburb of Bonn called Bad Godesberg with my German host-mother Ingrid. As we passed the window of a bookshop, a book titled "Kulturen im Norden" (Cultures of the North) immediately caught my attention. The book deals with the origins of Germanic, Celtic, and Slavic tribes of northern Europe and was a translation from the original English (Wilson and friends). I was pleasantly surprised that following christmas when I unwrapped a gift to discover it was that book. Ingrid had given me a very personal present indeed. The details surrounding the origins of the Franks are long and tedious and perhaps boring for most but I find them totally fascinating! This was 1980, I was 17, no Dan Brown or Da Vinci codes and no Holy Blood Holy Grails by Baigent and consorts; there I was into German history and the Merovingians as a Mexican from L.A. living in Germany.

Who were these people called the Franks who eventually gave rise to Clovis and Charlemagne under two dynasties: Merovingians and Carolingians? Without Rome there wouldn't have been any Franks as they were an alliance of different but related Germanic groups from the region east of the Rhine roughly located in the area that extends from the Ruhr river in the north, to the Sieg river further south. Today this area is formed by the Ruhr river region (recently one of the most important industrial areas of the world), and a bit further to the south the Bergisches Land which translates literally into mountain country. It is roughly the area that borders the right banks of the Rhine opposite Cologne and Bonn. It is believed that the Franks arose from a tribe knows as the Sicambrians and / or the Ripuarians (among other allied ethnicities most likely) which lived in this area during the late imperial period. They evolved a strong cultural identity (ethnos) and cohesiveness only vis-à-vis Roman occupation as would be expected in acts of resistance.

The Romans themselves would not have classified them as a "nation" in the classical sense of the word, but because Roman civilization, just across the river Rhine in Cologne for example, provided such a strong impetus for trade and intercultural exchange, that force alone was sufficient enough to rally these people (Völker) under the sword of leaders.  These leaders, heroes in the eyes of their followers, paved the foundation to what became European nobility.

The ancient and beautiful city of Metz was a major stronghold of Merovingian culture and the craddle of the Carolingian dynasty, one of whose founding fathers was bishop (now a declared saint) Arnulf, an ancestor of Charlemagne. He is known in German history as Arnulf von Metz but in the Romance language of the French as Saint Arnould. Provincial Roman aristocracy (senatorial clans), who had adopted Christianity and occupied the bishopric as a political mechanism of administration (people control) fused with Frankish warhorses to evolve into what became European "noble" dynastic lines. Their descendants still live among us and exercise major influence on world events.

Saint Etienne à Metz; Saint Stephen's

Saint Étienne's cathedral contains six stages of structural modification. Construction began in 1220 and ended in 1520; however, further changes were undertaken up until the 20th century. The total glass surface comprised by its windows amounts to 6500 square meters, the largest in France. It lies on the hill which throughout the centuries (millennia actually) has been the seat of political power and religious cult. It is an awe inspiring view, especially at night when illuminated.

Saved by a Mac & an o2 speed stick

The map I had wasn't detailed enough to show the villages I was going through, so I wasn't able to monitor if I was indeed on the right track. I was shooting for Bouzonville, a village just on the other side of the "border". I put that in quotation marks because what we understand as a border in California, such as U.S/Mexico, resembles more the so called Iron Curtain that once divided Germany. The crossing into France by way of this country road I selected was a walk in the park: no gestapo-like check points, guards, cameras, it was as if I had never left Germany. What does shift, however, is the flair, the signs, the aesthetics, just the style of living in general. There was no sign pointing the way to Bouzonville curiously enough. So I pulled out my Macbook from the back of my car, hooked up my o2 surf stick, and went to Google Maps. Connection speed was dreadfully slow up in those mountains, but at last I saw Bouzonville on the e-map and determined that I was on the right road.

Chambre 207, Hôtel de la Cathédrale

Chambre 207 oú j'ai passé la nuit à Metz la belle.

La clé da ma chambre

Traditional values at Hôtel de la Cathédrale.

Hôtel de la Cathédrale

A while ago I discovered this great guide to beautiful B&Bs written by French travel journalist Marie-Dominique Perrin. Dr. Götze Land & Karte is a travel bookshop in downtown Hamburg that sells books in other languages as well (including English & French). It's become one of my favorite bookshops. For me it has been a gold mine of practical information for my journeys. This hotel is one of the few inns featured in that book which is located directly in a city. Hôtel de la Cathédrale is run by Mme Hocine and, as its name says, faces Saint Etienne's cathedral straight on from 25, place de Chambre. Mme Hocine has carefully decorated her 31-room inn with lovely antique furniture thus the travel-torn wayfarer is completely surrounded by a high degree of aesthetics. I opted for the breakfast which consisted of croissants, dark bread (for Germans; Metz itself has been a German city several times in its history and many citizens still speak German), baguette bread, freshly pressed orange juice, a scrumptious selection of cheeses, cold cuts, watermelon, prunes, grapes (you get the picture). Oh yes! And coffee. It's an additional €11,- but worth every cent. Free parking may prove to be difficult and I heeded my hostess and parked the car in the underground parking structure right across the cathedral (follow the parking sign P - Préfecture or Cathédral) which coincidentally was also €11,- for a 24-hour period. Prices range from €58 to €105 a night. Highly recommended. Marie-Dominique Perrin's book is titled "Chambres d'hôtes secrètes" and for €24,- was a sound investment. In her review of these hotel rooms she says the following: Notre préférée est la n° 203, pleine vue, à hauteur du porche de la cathédrale. This is the room with the view to the cathedral.

Place Saint-Louis

The origins of Place Saint-Louis date back to the 13th century. It is where Café des Arcs is located. Along its archway there are shops and cafés where tourists and locals love to just "hang" and shoot the breeze like I was doing. Up to the 13th century the city had been constrained by its original Gallo-Roman walls, but it began to grow beyond the limits of its ancient shield, thus new buildings were built along the ancient wall. The result is this charming square now called Place Saint-Louis although its old name used to be Place du Change. This name alludes to the presence of money changers, the primordial bankers that once inhabited this square most of which were Italian and whose activity culminated in the 14th century. Lets admit it, modern banks are nothing more than money changers that profit from humanity's addiction to material goods. An adjacent street that leads onto the square pays homage to them: rue du Change.

Near naturpark Saar-Hunsrück near Saarlouis

I had just finished a business tour of clients in the area and my final stop had been at Saarlouis. Prior to that I had been in Trier (Trèves in French). I've always dreamt of visiting the city of Metz, the ancient capital of Lorraine in what today is eastern France near the border to Germany. Saarlouis is in the state of Saarland which like its neighbors Lorraine (German Lothringen), and Alsatia (Elsaß) has changed owners many times throughout centuries. Since WWII however borders have remained stable with Lorraine and Alsatia on the French, and Saarland on the German side of business. I had never been aware of this mountain range which I ascended by an inconspicuous country road. My map wasn't detailed enough to show the roads that lead up there but I knew it had to be west of Saarlouis. I located the sun and thought "west!" and drove in that general direction. I passed the a wealthy community west of Wallerfangen called Sankt Barbara. I witnessed some of the most beautiful country up to date consisting of forested mountains and gentle slopes cultivated for agriculture. I took this shot just a few miles from the French border and this smooth mountain range coasts down gently into the magnificent city of Metz.

Café des Arcs; Place Saint Louis à Metz

After visiting all the points of interest I had planned to view in Metz, I settled down at Café des Arcs on Place Saint Louis to drink a few beers. Roaming the halls of such a magnificent museum as the Musées de la Cour d'Or can be painstaking. There was this pretty girl working behind the bar pouring drinks, waiting on the tables of the square. She had this unusual aura, cheerful, and appealing. She also had this darker voice which added to her carnal magnetism and to boot was very playful. She was a happy being casually dressed in black pants and wearing a greenish top that aesthetically snugged her upper body. She noticed me and began to perform in these red Converse sneakers she was wearing. Aaahh, the ancient rite of flirt. In a nutshell she mocked herself up as the street girl from Metz all the while Manu Chau sang in Spanish through the café spekers. I sat inside sipping on my beer and read up on the historical sights I had just been to. Then the café-owner (or the manager perhaps) walked in and ordered her to go and assist some customers who couldn't speak French. She protested slightly saying "but I can't speak German" to which he replied, "but you speak a little English, here, just take these menus and try to find out what they want". That was that and It was so fucking funny that I had to refrain from laughing out loud. I almost intervened as interpreter but said to myself: naaah, you're just going to sit this one out and observe, maybe take pictures. And I was rewarded. She danced her way to the table and began negotiating the menu with these German ladies in her sexy English. I had just paid my bill and moved around the "event" just far enough so they wouldn't notice me taking the photographs with my little Lumix camera, partly hiding in the shade of the archway like a sniper awaiting the moment. She was just too cool, natural, playful, and so mucht into what she was doing: fulfilling her job as the waitress.

Bibliographie

1. La Cour d'Or, Musées d'Art et d'Histoire: 2, rue du Haut Poirier, 57000 Metz

2. Before France & Germany, The Creation & Transformation of the Merovingian World (German version), Patrick J. Geary

3. http://www.memo.fr/article.asp?ID=PAY_FRA_MER_005#Som0

4. http://www3.ac-nancy-metz.fr/educmuseemetz/spip.php?article11

5. http://www.mairie-metz.fr/metz2/sortir/musee/index.php

6. http://tout-metz.com/place-saint-louis.php

7. http://capitalelorraine.unblog.fr/2008/04/03/capitale-historique-de-la-lorraine/

8. http://www.mairie-metz.fr/metz2/decouvrir/webcam/cathedrale.php

9. http://www.musee-vosgien-brasserie.asso.fr/SaintArnould.html

10. http://fr.structurae.de/structures/data/index.cfm?id=s0009983

11. http://www.oenotheque.net/article-13700535.html, un article par Maxime Bucciarelli, Histoire des vins de Moselle

12. http://www.moncarnetderoute.com/content/stade-saint-symphorien