Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Épée mérovingienne

Depicted above is a Merovingian sword. The Merovingians were a Frankish tribe, in other words a Germanic conglomeration whose descendants are, among others, the German and French nations we know today. Only chieftains carried such long swords while their thegns (followers / warriors) swung axes and stabbed their foes with a type of knife (a short sword actually) called the "scramsaxe". The origins of the first and most powerful European dynasty to emerge from the ruins of Rome are thus Germanic.

I recall the winter of 1980 walking a suburb of Bonn called Bad Godesberg with my German host-mother Ingrid. As we passed the window of a bookshop, a book titled "Kulturen im Norden" (Cultures of the North) immediately caught my attention. The book deals with the origins of Germanic, Celtic, and Slavic tribes of northern Europe and was a translation from the original English (Wilson and friends). I was pleasantly surprised that following christmas when I unwrapped a gift to discover it was that book. Ingrid had given me a very personal present indeed. The details surrounding the origins of the Franks are long and tedious and perhaps boring for most but I find them totally fascinating! This was 1980, I was 17, no Dan Brown or Da Vinci codes and no Holy Blood Holy Grails by Baigent and consorts; there I was into German history and the Merovingians as a Mexican from L.A. living in Germany.

Who were these people called the Franks who eventually gave rise to Clovis and Charlemagne under two dynasties: Merovingians and Carolingians? Without Rome there wouldn't have been any Franks as they were an alliance of different but related Germanic groups from the region east of the Rhine roughly located in the area that extends from the Ruhr river in the north, to the Sieg river further south. Today this area is formed by the Ruhr river region (recently one of the most important industrial areas of the world), and a bit further to the south the Bergisches Land which translates literally into mountain country. It is roughly the area that borders the right banks of the Rhine opposite Cologne and Bonn. It is believed that the Franks arose from a tribe knows as the Sicambrians and / or the Ripuarians (among other allied ethnicities most likely) which lived in this area during the late imperial period. They evolved a strong cultural identity (ethnos) and cohesiveness only vis-à-vis Roman occupation as would be expected in acts of resistance.

The Romans themselves would not have classified them as a "nation" in the classical sense of the word, but because Roman civilization, just across the river Rhine in Cologne for example, provided such a strong impetus for trade and intercultural exchange, that force alone was sufficient enough to rally these people (Völker) under the sword of leaders.  These leaders, heroes in the eyes of their followers, paved the foundation to what became European nobility.

The ancient and beautiful city of Metz was a major stronghold of Merovingian culture and the craddle of the Carolingian dynasty, one of whose founding fathers was bishop (now a declared saint) Arnulf, an ancestor of Charlemagne. He is known in German history as Arnulf von Metz but in the Romance language of the French as Saint Arnould. Provincial Roman aristocracy (senatorial clans), who had adopted Christianity and occupied the bishopric as a political mechanism of administration (people control) fused with Frankish warhorses to evolve into what became European "noble" dynastic lines. Their descendants still live among us and exercise major influence on world events.

Saint Etienne à Metz; Saint Stephen's


Saint Étienne's cathedral contains six stages of structural modification. Construction began in 1220 and ended in 1520; however, further changes were undertaken up until the 20th century. The total glass surface comprised by its windows amounts to 6500 square meters, the largest in France. It lies on the hill which throughout the centuries (millennia actually) has been the seat of political power and religious cult. It is an awe inspiring view, especially at night when illuminated.

Sunday, June 28, 2009

Saved by a Mac & an o2 speed stick

The map I had wasn't detailed enough to show the villages I was going through, so I wasn't able to monitor if I was indeed on the right track. I was shooting for Bouzonville, a village just on the other side of the "border". I put that in quotation marks because what we understand as a border in California, such as U.S/Mexico, resembles more the so called Iron Curtain that once divided Germany. The crossing into France by way of this country road I selected was a walk in the park: no gestapo-like check points, guards, cameras, it was as if I had never left Germany. What does shift, however, is the flair, the signs, the aesthetics, just the style of living in general. There was no sign pointing the way to Bouzonville curiously enough. So I pulled out my Macbook from the back of my car, hooked up my o2 surf stick, and went to Google Maps. Connection speed was dreadfully slow up in those mountains, but at last I saw Bouzonville on the e-map and determined that I was on the right road.

Chambre 207, Hôtel de la Cathédrale




Chambre 207 oú j'ai passé la nuit à Metz la belle.

La clé da ma chambre

Traditional values at Hôtel de la Cathédrale.

Hôtel de la Cathédrale

A while ago I discovered this great guide to beautiful B&Bs written by French travel journalist Marie-Dominique Perrin. Dr. Götze Land & Karte is a travel bookshop in downtown Hamburg that sells books in other languages as well (including English & French). It's become one of my favorite bookshops. For me it has been a gold mine of practical information for my journeys. This hotel is one of the few inns featured in that book which is located directly in a city. Hôtel de la Cathédrale is run by Mme Hocine and, as its name says, faces Saint Etienne's cathedral straight on from 25, place de Chambre. Mme Hocine has carefully decorated her 31-room inn with lovely antique furniture thus the travel-torn wayfarer is completely surrounded by a high degree of aesthetics. I opted for the breakfast which consisted of croissants, dark bread (for Germans; Metz itself has been a German city several times in its history and many citizens still speak German), baguette bread, freshly pressed orange juice, a scrumptious selection of cheeses, cold cuts, watermelon, prunes, grapes (you get the picture). Oh yes! And coffee. It's an additional €11,- but worth every cent. Free parking may prove to be difficult and I heeded my hostess and parked the car in the underground parking structure right across the cathedral (follow the parking sign P - Préfecture or Cathédral) which coincidentally was also €11,- for a 24-hour period. Prices range from €58 to €105 a night. Highly recommended. Marie-Dominique Perrin's book is titled "Chambres d'hôtes secrètes" and for €24,- was a sound investment. In her review of these hotel rooms she says the following: Notre préférée est la n° 203, pleine vue, à hauteur du porche de la cathédrale. This is the room with the view to the cathedral.

Place Saint-Louis




The origins of Place Saint-Louis date back to the 13th century. It is where Café des Arcs is located. Along its archway there are shops and cafés where tourists and locals love to just "hang" and shoot the breeze like I was doing. Up to the 13th century the city had been constrained by its original Gallo-Roman walls, but it began to grow beyond the limits of its ancient shield, thus new buildings were built along the ancient wall. The result is this charming square now called Place Saint-Louis although its old name used to be Place du Change. This name alludes to the presence of money changers, the primordial bankers that once inhabited this square most of which were Italian and whose activity culminated in the 14th century. Lets admit it, modern banks are nothing more than money changers that profit from humanity's addiction to material goods. An adjacent street that leads onto the square pays homage to them: rue du Change.

Near naturpark Saar-Hunsrück near Saarlouis

I had just finished a business tour of clients in the area and my final stop had been at Saarlouis. Prior to that I had been in Trier (Trèves in French). I've always dreamt of visiting the city of Metz, the ancient capital of Lorraine in what today is eastern France near the border to Germany. Saarlouis is in the state of Saarland which like its neighbors Lorraine (German Lothringen), and Alsatia (Elsaß) has changed owners many times throughout centuries. Since WWII however borders have remained stable with Lorraine and Alsatia on the French, and Saarland on the German side of business. I had never been aware of this mountain range which I ascended by an inconspicuous country road. My map wasn't detailed enough to show the roads that lead up there but I knew it had to be west of Saarlouis. I located the sun and thought "west!" and drove in that general direction. I passed the a wealthy community west of Wallerfangen called Sankt Barbara. I witnessed some of the most beautiful country up to date consisting of forested mountains and gentle slopes cultivated for agriculture. I took this shot just a few miles from the French border and this smooth mountain range coasts down gently into the magnificent city of Metz.

Café des Arcs; Place Saint Louis à Metz




After visiting all the points of interest I had planned to view in Metz, I settled down at Café des Arcs on Place Saint Louis to drink a few beers. Roaming the halls of such a magnificent museum as the Musées de la Cour d'Or can be painstaking. There was this pretty girl working behind the bar pouring drinks, waiting on the tables of the square. She had this unusual aura, cheerful, and appealing. She also had this darker voice which added to her carnal magnetism and to boot was very playful. She was a happy being casually dressed in black pants and wearing a greenish top that aesthetically snugged her upper body. She noticed me and began to perform in these red Converse sneakers she was wearing. Aaahh, the ancient rite of flirt. In a nutshell she mocked herself up as the street girl from Metz all the while Manu Chau sang in Spanish through the café spekers. I sat inside sipping on my beer and read up on the historical sights I had just been to. Then the café-owner (or the manager perhaps) walked in and ordered her to go and assist some customers who couldn't speak French. She protested slightly saying "but I can't speak German" to which he replied, "but you speak a little English, here, just take these menus and try to find out what they want". That was that and It was so fucking funny that I had to refrain from laughing out loud. I almost intervened as interpreter but said to myself: naaah, you're just going to sit this one out and observe, maybe take pictures. And I was rewarded. She danced her way to the table and began negotiating the menu with these German ladies in her sexy English. I had just paid my bill and moved around the "event" just far enough so they wouldn't notice me taking the photographs with my little Lumix camera, partly hiding in the shade of the archway like a sniper awaiting the moment. She was just too cool, natural, playful, and so mucht into what she was doing: fulfilling her job as the waitress.

Saturday, June 27, 2009

Bibliographie

1. La Cour d'Or, Musées d'Art et d'Histoire: 2, rue du Haut Poirier, 57000 Metz
2. Before France & Germany, The Creation & Transformation of the Merovingian World (German version), Patrick J. Geary
3. http://www.memo.fr/article.asp?ID=PAY_FRA_MER_005#Som0
4. http://www3.ac-nancy-metz.fr/educmuseemetz/spip.php?article11
5. http://www.mairie-metz.fr/metz2/sortir/musee/index.php
6. http://tout-metz.com/place-saint-louis.php
7. http://capitalelorraine.unblog.fr/2008/04/03/capitale-historique-de-la-lorraine/
8. http://www.mairie-metz.fr/metz2/decouvrir/webcam/cathedrale.php
9. http://www.musee-vosgien-brasserie.asso.fr/SaintArnould.html
10. http://fr.structurae.de/structures/data/index.cfm?id=s0009983
11. http://www.oenotheque.net/article-13700535.html, un article par Maxime Bucciarelli, Histoire des vins de Moselle
12. http://www.moncarnetderoute.com/content/stade-saint-symphorien